Puglia

GREAT SWIMMING ACCESS

I just wanted to post this fabulous image from Denmark, as I think the Pugliese  'beaches' have some missed opportunity. 

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The Adriatic is so gorgeous, clear turquoise water teeming with little fish and no big waves to tumble water loving kids. But most of the water access is handled much better for boats (guest mooring sitting empty). Swimmers are largely allocated to hobbling and sitting on seaweed covered sharp boulders. 

One of the Bisceglie beaches. 

One of the Bisceglie beaches. 

Don't get me wrong we had a great time. But even the locals agree that the water access is not the best. 

EATING LUCREZIA BORGIA'S BREASTS

How is that for a grand title for a post? In a tribute to the staggeringly outstanding pastry in Italy I thought I'd share this Bisceglian specialty called 'Sospiri'.

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Now 'sospiri' actually means 'sighs' and the story goes that the pastry is - hmmm - representing the shape of dear Lucretia's breasts. I am a little unclear why, but she certainly was one special lady. 

Firstly, she was the daughter of a pope - an unusual and powerful starting point right there. She was married three times and her second husband was Alfonso of Aragon, who became the Duke of Bisceglie. He died under suspicious circumstances only two years into their marriage, probably poisoned - apparently by Lucretia or her brother.

There are wild stories about the parties and life led by the Borgias. Lucrezia had at least ten children (with many different men I might add) and I like to think that maybe this impressive scale of motherhood had something to do with her mammaries being thus immortalized as cream filled spongy mounds with delicate sugary skin.

Happy Sospiri, folks. 

 

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IMAGES FROM BISCEGLIE

I noticed that I have not really posted many images from Bisceglie. It is a small fishing town on the Adriatic coast in Puglia. Here are some pictures and comments.

This is th center harbor of Bisceglie. We live in Palazzo Ammazzalorsa, the big building with five white windows next to the pink building under the tower on the left.  

This is th center harbor of Bisceglie. We live in Palazzo Ammazzalorsa, the big building with five white windows next to the pink building under the tower on the left.  

The courtyard at our building.    

The courtyard at our building. 

 

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Dusk image and a night shot of the harbour. Our building is at the extreme right on the dusk image.

Dusk image and a night shot of the harbour. Our building is at the extreme right on the dusk image.

It takes a while to get the Italian business hours. Stores may be open until noon or one. Then pretty much everything closes, and re-opens again around five thirty or six. In the middle of the day nothing is open - except maybe a coffee shop or two.

It takes a while to get the Italian business hours. Stores may be open until noon or one. Then pretty much everything closes, and re-opens again around five thirty or six. In the middle of the day nothing is open - except maybe a coffee shop or two.

A view from the old city where we live. It is very authentic, and buildings are being renovated all the time.

A view from the old city where we live. It is very authentic, and buildings are being renovated all the time.

This picture shows how well some of the renovated apartments blend in. 

This picture shows how well some of the renovated apartments blend in. 

I really like this street furniture on the main shopping street. The stripe on the ground is an uplight which works really nicely in the evening.    

I really like this street furniture on the main shopping street. The stripe on the ground is an uplight which works really nicely in the evening. 

 

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Here is an evening image. 

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These pictures are from the Ethnographic Museum. The bottom one shows how horses were used to press olive oil. 

These pictures are from the Ethnographic Museum. The bottom one shows how horses were used to press olive oil. 

DAYTRIP TO TRANI

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Trani is a port city a bit north of Bisceglie. We took the bus there with Dante's friend Vito.  It is right by the 'heel' of Italy if you think of the country as a boot.

The days are hot here and any sprinkle of water is always welcome. 

The days are hot here and any sprinkle of water is always welcome. 

The inner harbour is very similar to that of Bisceglie, only bigger. 

The inner harbour is very similar to that of Bisceglie, only bigger. 

The medieval cathedral is very beautiful and the white limestone is calmly devoid of decoration. The wood beams and roof structure are also typical. We happened to visit at a time of a wedding and as we listened to the service we noticed some of it was given in German. An EU marriage most likely! 

The medieval cathedral is very beautiful and the white limestone is calmly devoid of decoration. The wood beams and roof structure are also typical. We happened to visit at a time of a wedding and as we listened to the service we noticed some of it was given in German. An EU marriage most likely! 

Nice sit down lunch in town. 

Nice sit down lunch in town. 

Sitting by the water's edge right outside the Cathedral. If you look carefully you can see boys jumping somersaults off the rocks into the water in the background.  

Sitting by the water's edge right outside the Cathedral. If you look carefully you can see boys jumping somersaults off the rocks into the water in the background.  

Mommy can you give me a push? 

Mommy can you give me a push?